South Haven, MI
South Haven was officially established as a town in 1869 and as a city in 1902. This area like many along the Michigan western shoreline of Sea Michigan, experienced significant growth due to the lumber industry. Rivers such as the Black River here, served as a highway for logs to be transported to mills. Access to lumber (in this case- custom milled lumber) directly supported boat and shipbuilding in South Haven as another significant industry. Further, the ships were then leveraged to transport a wide variety of products, primarily to other Sea Michigan and great lakes ports.
As other industries were established, additional transportation methods were too. These transportation options of rail, roads, and water led to leisure travel markets being established to feed the prolific number of resorts that were built in the area in the late 1800’s. The slogan of “By the Big Blue Water” was an effective travel marketing message used over 125 years ago (Historical Association of South Haven, 2014).
Reference: Historical Association of South Haven (2014). South haven by the big blue water: Historical walking tour. https://historyofsouthhaven.org/
Tall ship in the channel
The bustling downtown today centered around Phoenix Street, is poised at the top of the hill where Water Street directly leads down to South Beach. A wide variety of shops and restaurants are available, with a mix of year-round and seasonal retail shops and restaurants. The downtown area is very walkable, and with something for everyone it seems. In the winter, an ice-skating rink is next to Dyckman Park (now including an outdoor fireplace), and where in summer there is a farmer’s market and other events taking place. The newly re-constructed Michigan Maritime Museum is a recommended stop (on your way to the North Shore). Ship and boat tours leave from here too. https://www.michiganmaritimemuseum.org/
View of going up hill to downtown
Here I offer some personal suggestions for folks visiting South Haven. I am not sponsored or otherwise induced in this selection…I just like eating there. ;o) My choice of dining might not align with what you are looking for, yet I’m pretty sure you will be happy with the variety of options available in town. What’s really great, is that you can come off the beach, or walk to the beach, in 10 minutes to convenient dining options. Not all beach areas on Sea Michigan offer this convenience of a close “downtown” location. These dining establishments are not listed in any particular order, and there are many more to choose from in and around town:
South Haven is blessed with two wonderful, main beaches: North and South Beach…as well as several additional smaller beaches primarily just a bit north from North Beach. I rate the collective beaches here as among the best array of shoreline experiences that you will find in one location, on Sea Michigan.
South Beach offers an easily accessible and good size beach, close parking, select “beach food & retail”, plus direct access to the South Pier and lighthouse. In 2023, channel dredging from the mouth of the channel was deposited on South Beach, significantly expanding it. Here you will notice the section with a different make-up of the sand, with greater shell content, due to the dredging. In the summer, this beach can be relatively “packed’, yet there is room for everyone and the shoreline access stretches southward too. Given the primary beach being adjacent to the pier, the water can be calmer here when there are north/northwestern winds. As always, be sure to obey the water safety flag system…red flags meaning literally to stay out of the water. (More on water safety coming on this website). There are benches available in multiple locations, including the entire boardwalk from downtown, along the channel, and at the beach itself. Many folks simply prefer sitting and walking along the Black River channel itself. Both the South and North Pier tend to be actively used by fishermen…why not try your luck/skill? (If you are from out of state…you can get a fishing e-license at https://www.mdnr-elicense.com/ ).
South Beach hosts the South Pierhead Lighthouse. It’s maintained by the Historical Association of South Haven (HASH) with support from the City of South Haven...and thus it’s citizens. It may be open on limited days and hours during the summer…something I encourage all to experience somewhere within the great number of Michigan lighthouses on Sea Michigan. The original wooden structure was built closer to land in 1872. In 1903, a steel lighthouse was constructed to replace it, using the lantern room that had been shipped from Milwaukee, via Muskegon. I am conjecturing and need to confirm...that this lantern room was intended for Muskegon's light that same year, yet instead Muskegon chose to re-use the lantern room from their older lighthouse. Thus, South Haven has Muskegon's 1903 lantern room perched on it's light. Truly a “room with two views”! Ten years later in 1913, the lighthouse was moved over 400 feet further out in Sea Michigan to its present location, to better serve mariners. While walking out on the pier wall, you will observe a block of concrete still there from the 1903 light location. Beyond lights, sound was a common signal, and the lighthouses used a foghorn, then a fog bell, and subsequently a droning fog horn. It is one of the unique aspects of experiencing a shoreline, in hearing the fog horn and also seeing the lights do their duty. The last lighthouse keeper stationed here ended his service in 1940. Automation arrives.
Pier at South Beach
I walk this beach over 40 weeks/year! It is a good example of a place to fully appreciate in every season and (most) weather variations. Come walk with me! A bad day at the beach is better than a good day at work! ;o) North Beach is the largest single beach expanse in the area. There’s always room on the beach, yet this is limited by parking availability. The immediate parking is sufficient much of the year, yet on high demand days in the summer, many folks will be parking elsewhere and walking/shuttling in. Here too, there are convenient benches for sitting along the sidewalk. A concession stand (and public bathroom) is open during the prime summer season. In my experience…they remain open until close to sundown on many days too. There are normally two temporary walkways constructed during the summer, to assist with strollers, etc. in getting closer to the shoreline. Most beaches no longer have lifeguard towers as was the custom many years ago. (there are none in South Haven). Perhaps this service will be resurrected if beaches were more populated…another discussion for another day. Given the length of the beach, and being adjacent to the north pier wall, wave action can vary. At times you will see the safe-to-swim green flags further north on the beach, while the beach area near the pier wall may be showing a red flag- no swimming- due to the unique wave action that can be created there. This depends on the wind/wave direction on any given day. Water temperatures can change quickly on Sea Michigan…beyond the time of year, rain activity and wind direction have a significant effect on this at the shoreline. For swimming, Jul-Sep are the best bets, but some of you may prefer additional months in the chilly water temps to really cool down in! You will also see windsurfers (especially here at North Beach) even in the late fall and winter, as that is when strong winds drive great windsurfing waive…and they all are wearing insulated wet suites! Check out this website for water temperature info: https://www.surf-forecast.com/breaks/South-Haven/seatempThe North Pier Beacon is directly across the channel from the South Pierhead Lighthouse. Painted in green and white, it is an automated beacon used to clearly mark the entrance of the channel for mariners. Here too, fishing is a good excuse to hang out on this pier. Both piers serve as close-up viewing stations for the boats/ships that are going through the channel…cheap entertainment! ;o)
Pier at North Beach
From North Beach, if one continues walking north along the Sea Michigan shore (or drive north on North Shore Drive), there is a cluster of several small beaches/beach access areas that are interspersed among privately-owned residences and condos. The public can walk along the shoreline in all cases, yet don’t plant yourselves on private property please. (You will see a “long and ponderous series” of signs pointing this fact out to you, perched in the sand along the way, in case you forget). I personally refer to these mini beaches as the “Five Sisters” as they are all beautiful and have similarities. Here you get a sense of having your own personal beach, yet it is open to the public, and most of them have parking that is very close to the beach itself.
If one goes even further north beyond the Five Sisters, the “little step-sister” is First Street Recreational Access. There is no parking there, nor really not a place to park on North Shore Drive near there either…I view this as primarily for that neighborhood’s access. Yet, it is a public access point. It amounts to wooden steps leading to the beach, and the public beach access (fitted between private residences) here is officially 18 feet wide! Of course, it is still the same beautiful Sea Michigan experience as far as the shore is concerned.
Heading south of “downtown” South Haven is Deerlick Creek Park (a township park)…a very different experience (isn’t that what we are all looking for…new experiences?) from the “sandy beach scene”. It’s a somewhat hidden gem. The beach is mostly stones that have been worn smooth by the current/wave action within Sea Michigan. You will often find rock hunters here, joining you at the shoreline. There are just a few parking spaces. Benches and can be a very relaxing place to spend some time at. Read more information from the sign in the a photo attached here. The address is 76773 13th Avenue. (from South Haven, head south on 76th street or Red Arrow Highway…about a 10 minute drive).
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